MICROBRAND ATLAS ← FIELD NOTES WEEKLY → | | | | Independent watches.Outside the usual orbit.Once a week. | |  Pictured: Forward’s Palo Duro. $550 watch; $275 deposit. | ATLAS // FIELD NOTE The Five Watch Pricing Structures You Meet in HeavenBy Nick Gaudio I’ve been collecting for eons now (well, I’m a young 41 so maybe not eons) but I do have to say, I don’t think I’ve ever seen quite the levels of experimentation on the pricing side that we’re seeing in the watchmaker community now. Sign your name. Put down a deposit. Join the Kickstarter. Not to get all curmudgeonly here with a “Back in my day, we just bought shit.” But yeah. I mean, we did. And these days, on some level, you could be forgiven for finding this all pretty annoying. None of these arrangements is automatically a problem, per se, but I do want four things in plain sight and they almost never are: - the full price of what I’m getting,
- what’s due now,
- whether I can get it back, and
- At the very latest, when is this watch gonna be on my friggin wrist?
On the occasion that this information is both available and easily found I’m reminded that all of this pricing inventiveness… is actually kinda smart, and often… it’s the only way we’d get these brands off the ground to begin with. I saw five versions this week: | 01 / Follow.Colomer & Sons’ The Collector is at the notify-me stage. Five dial concepts, but no price or launch date yet. You’re joining a list, not placing an order. It’s still a commitment, especially with the way inboxes are jamming up with marketing spam lately. | | 02 / Reserve.Biatec’s Marína pair has a free, non-binding reservation. The 3,990-Euro set only becomes a binding preorder after a later 1,995-Euro deposit… if production proceeds. 😅 | | 03 / Put down half.Forward’s Palo Duro is asking for a $275 non-refundable deposit option. (That smaller number is the first payment, not the $550 price.) It’s a good thing you can trust it. | | 04 / Back a campaign. Understated darling Svalbard has the HX18 and HX19 and is taking the crowdfunding route alongside their store preorders. A campaign pledge isn’t a watch on a warehouse shelf; December is the stated delivery target. | | 05 / Preorder.Makoto’s white-dial Senshi is back for another batch. Red and gray are in stock; white means waiting. Same model, three colors, two different buying experiences. |
|  | U-BOAT |
Profondo 10001 LE Price undisclosed · Italy 46mm · Automatic · 50 pieces Only 50 shall be made. The 46mm titanium case is 27mm thick, the dial carries a meteorite insert, and U-BOAT rates it to an absurd 10,001 meters. Gotta love that extra meter. |
 | SVALBARD |
Time Travel HX18 + HX19 $189.90 preorder · 500 each 40mm HX18 · Quartz The HX18 jumps the hour; the HX19 uses one hand to show 24 hours and jumps the minutes. Both are quartz, limited to 500 and expected in December. |
 | TSAO BALTIMORE |
Natty Boh Moon — Phantom US$375 preorder · 40mm Swiss quartz moonphase · 200 per color If you’re from the B’more area (as I am), you know TSAO can’t get enough of its hometown. On this ode to the city by the Chesapeake, a translucent dial reveals a moonphase with a signature Natty Boh icon… and a date wheel underneath. And yes, it comes in a Natty Boh-style beer can (proving once again that TSAO knows how important the small touches are). See the colors → |
| ATLAS // COOL STORIES | 01 |  | SOPWITH |
Sopwith’s six Aero Marquis references use steel recovered from historic aircraft, including cockpit armor and century-old rotary engines. Underneath that cool-ass provenance: 41mm GMTs, ETA 2893-A2 movements and 200m water resistance. Be forewarned, these run $4,600 to a cool $10.5K. See the collection → |
| 02 | The Stone Is Only Half the Story A $255 ARAGON Enforcer-P and a $550 Forward Palo Duro both put tiger’s eye on the wrist. But one is a 44mm, 200m NH35-powered watch; the other is a 38mm, 50m Miyota 9039 model. Buy the whole watch, not just the rock. VALIMOR joins the conversation September 8 with four dials: Black Galaxy, lapis lazuli, blue tiger’s eye and Flame Opal — the last of which is Japanese lab-grown opal, not a mined stone. |
| ATLAS // THE WATCH HOLE  | REVELOT |
This Week’s Obsession Revelot and PosterLad put some cool-ass lenticular artwork on the Maya. I’d call it playful, very… blue, limited to 200, and exactly the right amount of weird. |
| ATLAS // SOME DEALS WORTH CHECKIN’ | GET YOUR FLEUX SHOT 25% off all in-stock watches with YTHEFLEUXNOT, (wait, is it pronounced flux?) plus free shipping. Head over to Fleux → | | | MAZEL TOV, IT’S ITAY NOY Our only Israeli watchmaker is hosting a one-week Rosh Hashanah selection announced today. You actually order here by contacting the maker directly; notable that no precise closing time was listed, and these watches are usually quite a lot more expensive than this. Visit Itay Noy → |
| ATLAS // PUT IT ON THE CAL | Sept 7 / Kiwame Tokyo. IWAO and MUNE preorders reopen at 9 a.m. JST. Keep an eye on Kiwame → | | | Sept 8 / VALIMOR. The Forged Gemstone campaign opens at 1 p.m. Eastern. About US$299 for the first 25 watches; about $349 afterward. Visit VALIMOR → | | | Sept 12–13 / It’s Always Sopwith in Philadelphia. Stephen Cox of Sopwith will be at the Philly Watch Fair, in the Masonic Temple’s Grand Ballroom at One North Broad Street. Admission is free. Even if you’re not Illuminati. Visit Sopwith → |
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